TURBO S

944
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GENERAL


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    I try to start the cleaning process with the interior. Vacuum carpet, seats etc. thoroughly, and inspect for stains. Treat stains following manufacturer's instructions. Next, wipe down interior plastic & hard surfaces with a damp cotton rag and let air dry.
    If your car has leather seats, there are two important parts to caring for your leather: cleaning and conditioning. Since your leather interior is the most delicate surface of your car, it is necessary to clean and condition regularly in order to preserve it, protect it, and keep it smelling new. Leather requires replacement of natural oils or it will dry out and crack. Conditioning helps to restore these natural oils and keeps the leather soft and supple. You will also find that with leather conditioners, the smell of the leather will be enhanced.
    Now its time to apply a quality vinyl/rubber protectant to the remaining surfaces. A quality protectant will easily penetrate surfaces and provide UV protection from the sun's rays. The only thing left is the windows, but we'll save that for last.

Step 2: Washing

Proper washing technique is essential in maintaining and protecting your car's finish. Washing is the process of removing dirt and road film from your car's paint. A good car wash solution provides lubrication to prevent scratching and natural oils and conditioners that will remove dirt without removing wax. Even the mildest soaps and detergents can remove the natural oils and wax from your car's paint, causing oxidation. Dish detergents can dull your car's finish even faster. Here are some tips to make washing easier:
   1. Before you begin, try to move the car into the shade or out of direct sunlight, and make sure your car is cool to the touch. A hot surface causes the wash and rinse water to evaporate too quickly, increasing the likelihood of water spotting.
   2. Start with the wheels first. Use a safe wheel cleaner (no acid or lye) to remove any accumulated brake dust and dirt. Unusually heavy soiled wheels may require a gentle brushing. Wash the wheels using a separate wash mitt or sponge to avoid transferring dirt to the car. Wheels must also be cool to the touch.
   3. Start by thoroughly wetting the car's finish with a gentle spray of water to remove loose grit and surface dirt. Use a quality car shampoo which is specifically formulated for automotive use. A high quality shampoo should contain surface conditioners and natural oils to help feed the paint. Follow the manufacturer's directions for the proper mix ratio. Using too much shampoo will strip wax and may leave a filmy residue on the surface.
   4. As for what to use for washing, a cotton chenille pad, or sheepskin wash mitt is the best. These mitts have a large number of fine filaments that draw dirt and grime away from the surface being cleaned into their internal structure. Synthetic sponges and wash clothes can trap grit, dirt, and grime on the surface which can scratch your car's paint. 100% cotton chenille wash mitts and pads are excellent as they hold lots of soapy water and are gentle on your paint.
   5. Start washing from the top and work down, rinsing the car often. Frequent rinsing is especially important because you don't want the car wash to dry on the paint. For the final rinse, I remove the nozzle from the hose and allow the water to sheet off the car.
   6. For drying the car, use a clean, damp, natural or synthetic chamois, start at the top of the car and work down, drawing the chamois across the surface in a straight line. Repeat wiping until the surface is mostly dry then finish drying with a clean terry cloth towel to remove any remaining water.

Step 3: Paint Evaluation

There are two things to look for when evaluating your car's paint, adequate wax protection and paint contaminants. After washing your car, take a good look at paint. Are the bead's 3/8" diameter or less? If so, you have good wax protection. Next, dry the car thoroughly. Now with clean hands, run your finger tips across the paint surface. It should feel very smooth, like glass. If so, skip to step 5. If it doesn't, you're feeling contaminants and oxidation. This is your indication that it's time to clean the paint using a good pre-wax cleaner or polish/glaze.

Step 4: Pre-Wax Cleaning & Polishing

As your paint ages from exposure to pollution, UV rays and acid rain, the once shiny finish gradually becomes dull and chalky. Applying wax over these surfaces will only create a slight gloss over dull paint. To reveal the paint's true shine and depth, it must be cleaned & polished. Polishing deep cleans the paint as it removes oxidation, old wax and minor swirl marks. It also insures a uniform, high gloss shine. The result is an extremely clean and smooth top layer of paint, which is then ready for waxing.

Polishing Tips
   
   1. Work in a shaded area, out of direct sunlight.
   2. Most polishes apply best with a cotton terry cloth or terry applicator pad. If the cloth or applicator becomes caked with polish, switch to a fresh applicator (you may also be using too much polish).
   3. Work on one area at a time covering 2 to 4 square feet. Buff off residues as you go. This allows you to discover any problems early before polishing the entire car.
   4. If the polishing residue does not buff off easily, switch to a clean wipe towel.
   5. Apply polishes in a linear motion, not circular (polishes should take out swirls, not create them… don't go in circles). After polishing, your car's surface should be squeaky clean, smooth, and free of streaks and minor swirls.

Step 5: Waxing

To properly protect your paint from the harsh environment, you need a good quality wax. Wax in it's simplest form is a sacrificial barrier for your car and without it the paint would be ruined in no time. Just as important, are surface preparation and application. Here are a few tips to help you achieve that "Ultimate Winning Shine".
   1.Make sure the paint surface is cool to the touch.
   2.Apply wax sparingly. Use only a 100% terry cloth covered sponge or foam type applicator pad.          
   3.When applying, rub in a linear motion (you don't want to create swirl marks) until all that remains is a slight haze. Most waxes work best when you allow this haze to dry*. Try to concentrate on one area at a time, such as the hood or door. Next, buff off haze and move on to the next area. This way if you need to stop for any reason, you can easily pick up where you left off.
After you have completed waxing, return to where you had started, and with a clean cloth, rebuff. By this time the wax has had some time to harden (cure) and any extra buffing will bring out a deeper shine.

* Note: Some waxes require you to buff immediately after applying to a small section (1 foot square). P21S & Zymol are examples of this type of wax. Do Not let these waxes dry, instead follow manufactures instructions carefully.